Places Archives - Adventure Cycling Association

Redwood National Park: Local Adventures Can be Grand Adventures

Hollie Ernest — Tue, 02 Jul 2024 20:57:43 +0000

This is a ride report for the Short Route: Eureka, CA: Redwood Coast Loop while the author and her husband were developing the route. Sweat dripped down my nose and landed on my handlebars. Gnats whirred in my ears, determined to steal my sanity. By slapping them, I slapped my own face, and when I slapped my ear too hard my hand got tangled in my helmet strap. I cursed the added weight of the bottle of wine and steak in my pannier. Won’t steak be fun, I had thought. Won’t that be romantic. It was the Friday of Memorial Day weekend. I questioned why we weren’t swimming and grilling out on the long weekend, like normal people. Instead, I was huffing and puffing and checking the map every tenth of a mile to see if we were at the top of the long, steep gravel climb. We had left our house near the breezy Pacific Ocean in Arcata, California, and pedaled 35 miles over two watersheds, inland to the mountains and the heat. I used to think there was no point cycling roads I drove all the time. For years, I planned cycling trips in other states or countries and neglected the roads around me. Groups of us would mountain bike on our local forest trails, but local overnights seemed either too close or too much hassle. But my partner Tom and I had decided to change it up, mapping this loop and riding it over the long weekend. En route up this hill I had driven dozens of times, I saw clusters of trees I never noticed before, including a few particularly large Douglas firs and madrones. There were also scattered acres that had been harvested for timber, a large boulder shaped like a dog, and the beginning of royal purple larkspur flowers. “Was that there last time we were here?” I asked Tom as we pedaled past a small DIY shooting range just over the BLM boundary. He said that it was. Despite appreciating the novel observations, I was tired and kept asking myself, Where am I? Did we miss the turn? Missing the turn to Lacks Creek is impossible. We would never miss the turn. Tom had driven up to Lacks Creek close to a hundred times during the building of the trail system. We had actually met on that drive years before when I volunteered for a trail-building day. I should have known that his up-for-anything attitude and my motivation for adventurous weekends would lead to this masochistic Friday afternoon. I wiped my sweaty hands on my saturated shorts and kept pedaling. We finally reached the unmissable turn, pedaled another mile, and set up camp overlooking the fog covering the ocean to the west. Horse Mountain sat to the southeast of us, and rays of sunset danced around the clouds. The arduous climb became a distant memory and we felt somewhat smug about our weekend getaway out of the fog and into the warm spring air. Congratulating ourselves with steaks over the fire, we drank wine from the bottle and I went over all the flowers I had seen on the ride, including ones I hadn’t noticed on other trips by car. We were already excited for the next two days of pedaling. The next day we woke up foggy in our heads and legs, but after strong black coffee and tortillas filled with Nutella, we carefully descended corrugated gravel towards the Hoopa Valley to the east. We saw a bear, a fox, and osprey, marveling at the geology of the cliffs and bluffs along State Highway 96, as we cycled north along the Trinity River. The Trinity River merges with the Klamath River, known for its legendary salmon runs. We crossed the bridge at the confluence and refilled our snack supply at the newly renovated Weitchpec store. After crossing the bridge over the wide, murky water, we turned left on the 169, then crossed back over the Klamath and climbed up switchbacks on Bald Hills Road, cycling west. Over the next day and a half, we crossed the ancestral lands of Hupa and Yurok Tribes, up and over Bald Hills Road, and into Redwood National Park. Before crossing into the park, there is a very elaborate Yurok Veterans Cemetery, with somewhat overbuilt concrete buildings, ramps and railings. We paid our appropriate respects over the Memorial Day weekend. The smell of bigleaf maple blossoms sat heavily in the fog as bird calls echoed in the steeper parts of the valley. The pain from Friday had dissolved and we glided along, happy to be pedaling through the mist that covered the golden meadows and purple lupine lining the road. Two years before, I had worked a summer in the Bald Hills on a project to restore habitat for native grasses. Even though I had hiked for more than 100 hours over the oak woodlands and prairies, I hadn’t felt the rolling hills as intimately as that day. This time, on bikes, each meadow and each hill etched into my mind like a nail scratching into an aluminum tree tag, recorded for later. As the road leaves the ridge, potholed hairpin turns lead back to the coast and Highway 101. We descended quickly, seeing 1,00o-year-old redwood trees and outpacing the cars. From the intersection of Bald Hills and Highway 101, you can turn right to go north for more redwood glory via Newton B Drury Scenic Parkway, or turn south and ride through the town of Orick. There is a well-known burger and shake stand in Orick, and I felt like I had earned a meal there. We attacked the elk burgers, fries, and milkshakes like we hadn’t eaten in weeks. I wiped ketchup from my chin and stared at the redwood burls across the highway. Sitting on our stools next to the two-lane highway across the street from a run-down motel, we deemed this was the best Memorial Day weekend. We were on a local adventure, absorbing the hills we call home. The section along the 101 was the most familiar to me, since I drove it often for work. But again, I got to see what I had been missing. A short walk along the beach near Freshwater Lagoon left sand in our cycling shoes, and the waves were deafening, rising close to shore before crashing onto the hard-packed sand. Continuing south along the coast, we passed Big Lagoon and Stone Lagoon, pedaling slow enough to note the level of vegetation in their brackish waters. Otters poked their heads out and gulls crowded the shores. Cormorants glided low over the choppy water. The sky was overcast when we arrived home on Monday afternoon. Instead of punching the weekend to the last minute like usual, we had time to unpack, clean gear, and get ready for work the next day. Despite this moment of responsible behavior, we felt like we had gotten away with something. We’d had an epic weekend and felt like we’d gone far away and seen things no one else had. Since that memorable trip years ago, I’ve cycled various parts of this route on different rides. Each time, I feel a deeper sense of connection and familiarity with the place I call home. Instead of regarding these places as mundane or boring, I see them as more special. Each small hill, each large mountain, each watershed, or smooth-barked trees… are all special. This particular weekend reminded me that adventure is a mindset, and the ‘grand’ part of grand adventures is up to us.

Find the route here

Nuts and Bolts

This is a loop route with a start / finish in Eureka, California.
It is 185 miles with 16,167 feet of climbing and can be cycled in either direction.
There is not much resupply, so take most of what you’ll need and top up on snacks accordingly.
Depending on the time of year, you’ll want to be strategic about water. After a rainy winter, there will likely be more springs, but these dry up in the fall or during low-precipitation summers. There are several waterless sections as well.
You can shorten or lengthen this route according to your timeframe. There are several out-and-backs included in the route, in order to factor in spaced-out campgrounds. The road is mostly paved roads with a few short gravel sections.

Highlights

Ecosystem variety! You’ll see Humboldt Bay, inland conifer forests, steep river valleys, oak forests, and prairies before returning to the Pacific Coast.
Seeing several watersheds
Redwood trees
Mountain views
If you do this route in the summer you’ll have campgrounds with riverfront spots

While dominant winds on the coast are typically from the west and/or north, it’s worth checking the wind direction on an app like Windy before choosing which direction to ride. The route is designed to leave from Eureka, the population center for Humboldt County, but you could easily start from Arcata, McKinleyville, or another nearby community. Eureka and Arcata have plenty of shops and accomodations, but once you get pedaling, resupply is limited to convenience stores in Weitchpec and Orick. Campsites near the route are marked on the Ride with GPS route, and you can divide the days however you like. People who want to speed through it could do it in two or three days, while sightseers could turn it into a five-day tour. This route has a lot of climbing, as well as some short sections with high traffic, so it is not recommended for families or kids. This route takes place on the ancestral lands of the Hupa, Karuk, Yurok, and Wiyot peoples.

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A Little Loop in Michigan

Laura Killingbeck — Thu, 06 Jun 2024 19:49:43 +0000

One of my favorite ways to see a new place is to make my own bike loop. I love pedaling away from wherever I am and returning a few days later to the same spot. There’s a magic in leaving and returning at the speed of your own legs. This year I spent the winter caretaking a condo and dog in western Michigan, and after that I had a few days to explore. I decided to go on a little bike loop to see more of the backcountry and coastline.

Route Planning

To plan this trip, I just poked around the Adventure Cycling Association website and Bikepacking.com to see if there were any bike routes nearby. On the Adventure Cycling website I found the North Lakes cycling route, a paved U.S. bike route along the coast of Lake Michigan. The route had easy resupplies, great views of the lake, and plenty of camping options. And it passed directly through the town I was in! I found the North Country Traverse on Bikepacking.com. This is a 172-mile non-technical singletrack route starting at a trailhead about 50 miles away. The route also showed plenty of backcountry camping options, water, and easy resupplies. I compared the two routes and found they intersected at the northern terminus of the North Country Traverse at Traverse City, creating a near-perfect loop. I could ride out of town on the North Lakes cycling route, cut over to the North Country Traverse, take that to Traverse City, and then hop back onto the North Lakes route down the coast to where I’d started. So that’s what I did! The total length of this route was about 300 miles, and it took me about a week and a half. I also wrote about my first day on this trip in this story. Here are the details about this shorter route, and how to tackle it yourself.

Navigation

Before I left, I downloaded maps of the area to my phone and tablet through Google Maps and Gaia. Google Maps is a free source for offline road maps. Gaia is an excellent app that shows detailed hiking and biking routes, campsites, and landscapes. I also downloaded the North Country Traverse GPX files to my phone and tablet from Bikepacking.com. The Adventure Cycling Association’s North Lakes Route can be downloaded through the Adventure Cycling Association’s Navigator App or as GPX files. Since I was only doing a short section of this route, I didn’t need to download those maps for this trip. But if I were doing a longer section it would have been useful. The Navigator App makes it easy to follow any of the Adventure Cycling Association’s bike routes. Along my ride, I also picked up a paper map of cycling routes from the Michigan Department of Transportation. You can order or download that map from their website.

Landscape and Climate

I left in mid-April, which is technically spring, but in Michigan it still felt like winter! During the first few days of my trip, I experienced rain, sleet, snow, and a brief moment of surprise hail. Nighttime temperatures were in the 20s. A week and a half later when I finished my trip, flowers were blooming and temperatures were in the 60s. The entire loop was mostly flat with some short, rolling hills. There were no mountain passes or significant elevation changes. The North Country Traverse highlighted western Michigan’s secluded forests and dunes. The North Lakes Route reminded me of Adventure Cycling’s Pacific Coast Route, which I cycled last year. If you’re attracted to shoreline riding, the Michigan section of the North Lakes Route is a gem.

Camping and Resupply

I camped every night along the way. The North Country Traverse and my section of the North Lakes route both pass through National and State forest land with ample free dispersed camping. I supplemented my dispersed campsites with registered camping in Michigan’s extensive network of primitive campgrounds. As always, the Adventure Cycling Association and Bikepacking.com show campsites, lodging options, and grocery stores on their route maps. I always bring tons of food with me wherever I go. I prefer to eat as much as I want all the time without having to measure or ration anything. I also often dehydrate my own foods ahead of time and take them with me. This means I end up carrying a lot of extra weight in food, but I don’t really mind. On this trip I supplemented the food I brought from home with resupplies at country stores, gas stations, and grocery stores. There were plenty of options. I got most of my water in towns, but also occasionally filtered water from streams.

Bike and Gear

I don’t think you need the “perfect” gear to go on a bike trip. You just need the gear that will get you there and back, and keep you safe and happy along the way. My setup is always a mix of things I happen to have, items that survive the test of time, and whatever new gear I’m testing for gear companies. You can see my full gear list for this trip here.

Creating Your Own Bike Loop from a Larger Route

Since 1976, the Adventure Cycling Association has mapped over 50,000 miles of bike routes across the United States. These bike routes intertwine and overlap, forming hundreds of possible loops. You can also make your own loop by splicing routes together however you want. I’ve often planned my bike trips to start or end at my house or a friend’s house. That’s what I love so much about bike travel: you can start wherever you are, or aim for wherever you want to be. The adventure unfolds along the way. To make your own loop, just choose a place to start or end and then pull out some maps. The Adventure Cycling Association’s Interactive Route Map is a great place to look. How close are you to a bike route?

The North Lakes Route Nuts and Bolts

Overview: The North Lake Route connects 1,600 miles of pavement and bike paths between Minneapolis, Minnesota and Denver, Indiana. Distance: 1,600 miles (1,200 miles plus additional route alternates) Route Surface: Paved Terrain: Backroads, highways, and bike paths. Flat or rolling, with no major mountain passes. Best Season to ride: Spring, summer, and fall (Adventure Cycling recommends May through September). Bike: Any bike Find more information and download maps through the Adventure Cycling Association.

The North Country Traverse Nuts and Bolts

Overview: The North Country Traverse is a singletrack bike route through western Michigan. It follows a bike-friendly segment of the North Country Trail (NCT), a 4,800-mile footpath between North Dakota and Vermont. Distance: 173 miles Route Surface: 86% unpaved, 66% singletrack Terrain: Mostly non-technical with some roots, leaf litter, blow-downs, sand, mud, bridges, stairs, and other obstacles. Flat or rolling. The trail is well-marked with signs and blue blazes. Best Season to ride: Spring, summer, and fall. (Bikepacking.com recommends April through November, or whenever the trail is clear of snow.) Bike: This is a mountain bike route. Recommended tire size is two inches or wider. Find more information and GPX files at Bikepacking.com.

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How You Ride the Great American Rail-Trail

Maggie Slepian — Wed, 24 Apr 2024 15:04:16 +0000

Picture this: You hop on your bike in Washington, D.C. and start pedaling on a series of bike paths and peaceful sections of rail-trails. You angle northwest through Pennsylvania and cross Ohio, continuing across the Midwest into Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho until you reach Washington and cycle all the way to the Pacific Ocean. This journey across the U.S. is separated from traffic, utilizing a series of interconnected multi-use trails and allowing you to safely explore the vistas, small towns, and rich history across the country. Sound nice? That’s the Rails to Trails Conservancy’s (RTC) vision for the Great American Rail-Trail, a massive undertaking more than 50% complete with over 2,050 completed miles already on the ground. New trail segments are added to the route each year, and RTC is working with hundreds of partners across the country to accelerate trail development.

The Great American Rail-Trail is an Iconic Route in the Making

Credit: Rails to Trails Conservancy**

RTC began tracking rail-trail development in the late 1980s. Over time, a non-motorized route across America began to present itself. RTC waited until a pathway through the West was possible and the cross-country route was more than 50% completed before committing to leading its development. After conducting hundreds of meetings to gather input from trail partners, and local and state agencies, RTC announced the project to the public in May 2019. As it stands, the route traverses 12 states and Washington, D.C., with more than 100 miles of trail in current active development. RTC works with hundreds of trail organizations and partners on local and state levels to help map this route, hitting major cities like Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, Columbus, Ohio, Seattle, Washington, and Missoula, Montana. Notable trail segments include the Great Allegheny Passage, Great Miami River Trail in Ohio, and the Palouse to Cascades State Park Trail in the state of Washington. Since the trail segments aren’t fully linked, people embarking on this journey currently map their own connections between completed trail portions using a series of roadways. No matter what section or state you decide to ride, riding between historic towns and major cities on peaceful rail-trails is the adventure of a lifetime. More than 50 million people live within 50 miles of one of these proposed segments, so the opportunity for increased recreation on accessible, non-motorized paths is a benefit for everyone. Each year has seen major strides in visibility, progress, and cyclists’ time spent on the route. Since the project was announced in 2019, more than $117.5 million in public and private resources have been invested in projects along the Great American Rail-Trail.

Adventure Cycling Partners Up to Create a Detour Route through the Mountain West

Western end of the detour route at the Route of the Olympian. Credit: Rails to Trails Conservancy.

In many parts of the country, people have several options for connecting existing sections, including traveling through towns with services and linking together road segments. Some regions need more connections than others. The Mountain West — particularly between the western end of the Cowboy Recreation and Nature Trail in Chadron, Nebraska and the eastern end of the Route of the Olympian in St. Regis, Montana — provides a unique challenge. This 960-mile section of the route has the fewest existing trail miles, and services can be spread far apart. To help amend this, RTC came to Adventure Cycling to map a detour route. Since the Great American Rail-Trail is based on the idea that cyclists will be on separated paths away from vehicle traffic, it appeals to a certain audience of cyclists. As some of those cyclists are less comfortable on busier roadways, the detour route creates a temporary solution for those ready to ride it right now. Adventure Cycling’s experience lies largely in building safe and accessible routes on existing roadways, and their cartographers tapped a few different resources to create the detour route. These included existing Adventure Cycling routes, regional and social network knowledge, and intel from state and local organizations and cycling groups. “RTC wants to create the safest, most comfortable riding experience for folks. Out here in the West, we have a much looser and more gap-filled set of paths to work from,” says Jenn Hamelman, Director of Routes for Adventure Cycling Association.

Credit: Rails to Trails Conservancy

“RTC’s expertise is in rail-trails and separated paths, and our expertise is in trying to find the best solutions via roads,” says Hamelman, “This detour route travels through key communities that will be on the finalized segment, which will give them a preview of what it’s like to have bicycle travelers come through.” This is the first time Adventure Cycling has collaborated with RTC on any sort of route development, but the Great American Rail-Trail does overlap with several Adventure Cycling routes, including the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route in Butte, Montana, multiple sections of the Lewis & Clark Trail through Montana, and Parks, Peaks, and Prairies through Basin, Wyoming. Adventure Cycling mapped the route and provided all points of interest, including service information and towns. RTC continues to work with its partners across the country to fill these gaps to ensure that anyone can take a trip on the Great American Rail-Trail through the Mountain West, whether for an afternoon or for an epic-weeks long adventure. Explore the 960-mile detour route and the entire Great American Rail-Trail here.

How Should You Choose What Section to Ride?

Credit: Rails to Trails Conservancy

There are plenty of sections to choose from on the Great American Rail-Trail, and the one you pick depends on your starting location, how much time you have to ride, and the amenities you’ll want along the way. Since the route largely follows old railroad lines, it means that many sections offer a new town every 5-20 miles, providing ample opportunities for supplies and amenities. The states do vary in completion, so keep that in mind when picking your section. The 207 miles of Washington D.C. and Maryland are complete, and nearly all of Pennsylvania is mapped, including the iconic 150-mile Great Allegheny Passage. The 468 miles through Iowa are more than halfway complete, with 255 trail miles and 212 gap miles, and the new detour routes a more comfortable ride in Nebraska, Wyoming, and Montana. You can find the breakdown of each state here, along with more information about trails and plans for development. “The Great American Rail-Trail offers something for everyone,” says Kevin Belle, Project Manager for Rails to Trails Conservancy. “This includes well-traveled, paved trails in an urban core to remote, unpaved trails that provide some one-on-one time with nature.” The longest continuous completed section of the Great American Rail-Trail travels between Washington, D.C. and Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania along the C&O Canal National Historical Park and the Great Allegheny Passage, providing more than 330 miles of connected trail. Belle also recommends that users looking for a more rugged experience should try the trails in the western half of the route, like the Cowboy Recreation and Nature Trail in Nebraska. Remember that the terrain changes between the states, and not just with the percentage of route completed. As you move from the mid-Atlantic to the midwest, consider weather changes, and as you progress into Montana and Idaho, the climbing will increase and the elevation ramps up.

What Type of Bike is Best for the Great American Rail-Trail?

Credit: Rails to Trails Conservancy

Like we often say about starting out bicycle travel, the best bike is the one you already own. But if you’re interested in getting more into extended bike tours, we recommend going to a bike fitter and making sure you’re on a bike that suits both your body and your riding style. People ride all sorts of configurations on the Great American Rail-Trail, including lightweight carbon gravel bikes all the way to heavier-duty hardtail mountain bikes. Since there is little technical riding on this route, you won’t need anything super aggressive, and we suggest considering comfort over suspension. Think about whether you prefer a flat-bar bike or drop-bars, and whether it’s easier for you to ride flats or clipless. Whichever style suits your pre-existing touring preferences will be the best option. “Railroads can only travel at a low elevation grade, which makes their old corridors ideal for the trail needs of a wide variety of people,” says Belle. “Most of the existing trails along the Great American are paved or use a crushed stone surface, which most bikes can handle.” Belle did say that there are some segments that are a little more rugged in which a cyclist might benefit from a touring bike or mountain-bike hybrid, so do your research before picking a section and make sure your bike can handle it.

How Should You Prepare to Ride the Great American Rail-Trail?

Credit: Rails to Trails Conservancy

Consider your trip on the Great American Rail-Trail like any other bike travel journey with access to towns and resources. You’ll have to plan your trip itinerary, get your bike and gear ready, and start training. Once you’ve decided on a section of route and taken your timeline into consideration (how many miles per day you anticipate riding), we always suggest you start physically preparing. Adventure Cycling contributor Mac McCoy has a great overview of four training stages here, emphasizing the importance of not just training large muscle groups, but getting your seat ready for long days in the saddle and making sure your bike is set up for your proportions. This means everything from your seat height to the distance between the seat and handlebars, and ensuring everything is working properly. It doesn’t hurt to bring the bike in for a full tune, or do your own multipoint inspection at home. We recommend starting training at least 12 weeks before your planned departure date — whether you’re riding indoors or outdoors — and cycling at least three days per week. Aim for time spent in the saddle as opposed to distance, and work up to two hours or more for your longer rides, keeping in mind you’ll be taking plenty of breaks on the Great American Rail-Trail for sightseeing, snacks, and unplanned days off in particularly cool cities. One of the great things about almost any section of the Great American Rail-Trail is that you’re never far from resources, and while much of the scenery feels peaceful and far from civilization, these pathways and trail segments are popular thru-ways between towns and along rivers. You don’t have the remoteness of other routes to consider when worrying about mechanicals, gear issues, or resupply issues. While there are more resources than other cross-country routes, we still recommend knowing the region and familiarizing with the resources and highlights of your section. Knowing your own to resources, bike shops, and cell service can provide peace of mind.

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**Editor’s note: The images in this article show different segments of the Great American Rail-Trail, but they do not depict the detour route through the Mountain West unless noted.

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East Coast Greenway Alliance Partnership for Short Routes

Lauren Hudgins — Mon, 08 Apr 2024 21:21:16 +0000

Our Short Routes program is set for an East Coast expansion thanks to a recent partnership with the East Coast Greenway Alliance — a nonprofit working to develop a 3,000-mile, traffic-free route from Maine to Florida that connects 450 communities across 15 states. The Short Routes program is a collection of 50-200-mile routes that take two to five days to ride. Together, we’re able to share the creation of four new Short Routes in New England. These routes come complete with suggested itineraries and showcase the best of the East Coast Greenway, all available to you now at no cost through Ride with GPS!

Boston to Cape Cod Loop

Bike packing on the Cape Cod Rail Trail in Massachusetts.

East Coast Greenway Alliance

Sample the best of southern New England. From Boston, travel south to Providence, R.I., down the Narragansett Bay and east to Cape Cod, then ferry back to Boston from Provincetown. This route is mostly on paved trails, unpaved trails, and mostly quieter residential roads. Suggested trip length of five days.

Portland to Brunswick, Maine, Coastal

Explore a section of the Maine coast, East Coast Greenway, US Bike Route 1, and Adventure Cycling’s Atlantic Coast route with a majority on-road route from Portland, ME to Brunswick, ME. This trip can be done as a one-way paired with train or bus or as an out-and-back. There are Amtrak stops in Portland, Freeport, and Brunswick as well as BREEZ bus with multiple stops along the route. This route is almost entirely on road on rolling urban, residential, and rural roads and signed with East Coast Greenway and US Bike Route 1 wayfinding signage. There are many hotel and camping options in Freeport and in Brunswick.

Portland, Maine, to Newburyport, Massachusetts

Explore a section of the Maine and New Hampshire coasts, East Coast Greenway, US Bike Route 1, and Adventure Cycling’s Atlantic Coast route with a two-day cycling tour from Portland, ME to Newburyport, MA. The ride is relatively flat. Some of the route is on trail including beautiful stretches on the Eastern Trail south of Portland. Enjoy the views of the Atlantic Ocean along the New Hampshire route — it’s one of the few stretches of the East Coast Greenway that truly hugs the ocean coastline. You can ride the Amtrak Downeaster and Massachusetts Commuter Rail to connect from Portland to Boston and Newburyport to Boston.

Border to Boston

Explore trails from Boston to the New Hampshire border with rides from 17-75 miles. Options to combine rides with commuter rail for longer or shorter trips that are mostly flat and mostly on trail. There are hotel and airbnb accommodations in Newburyport, Salem, Boston, and other communities along the route. Jenn Hamelman, our Director of Routes, expressed her enthusiasm for this partnership, stating, “I’m pleased that the opportunity to showcase some of the best of the East Coast Greenway within the Short Routes program presented itself! These four routes are certain to appeal to the cyclist who wants to try bicycle travel, share the experience with a newer-to-cycling friend, or only has a few days to get out.” Allison Burson, the National Greenway Director at the East Coast Greenway Alliance, also shared her thoughts: “As a fellow nonprofit, the East Coast Greenway Alliance’s trip-planning resources are limited, but these itineraries are a great way for us to efficiently share recommendations for safe and scenic rides on some of the most complete stretches of the Greenway. Stay tuned for more.” These four routes in New England are available now, for no charge, and additional Short Routes along the rest of the route (mid-Atlantic and South) are coming soon.

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Watch the Eclipse from Your Bicycle

Lauren Hudgins — Fri, 15 Mar 2024 22:08:58 +0000

An estimated about 21 million people traveled to another city to view the eclipse of 2017. Why compete with the crowds this year? Bike camping is the perfect way to witness the total solar eclipse on April 8, 2024: No need to worry about stop and go traffic, impossible airfares, and fully-booked hotels. The path of totality crosses a dozen Adventure Cycling Association bicycle routes. Our maps recommend convenient camping, lodging, and bicycle shops along the way. Is this your first bike camping trip? We has all the information you need to get started with bike touring or bikepacking, including how to plan your itinerary, what you’ll need, and what to do if you have any problems along the way. Below is a list of the routes in the path of totality, nearby cities and towns, and the time of totality at those towns.

Southern Tier

Stretch from the Amistad National Recreational Area, TX (totality 1:28 pm), on Section 3 to Austin, TX (totality 1:36 pm), on Section 4

Texas Hill Country Loop

The entire loop except the portion from Southeast Austin, TX (totality 1:36 pm), to New Braunfels, TX (totality 1:35 pm)

Arkansas High Country Loop

The entire South Loop on Section 1 with Little Rock, AR as an anchor city (totality 1:51 pm) The entire Central Loop on Section 2 with Conway, AR (totality 1:51 pm) or Russellville, AR (totality 1:50 pm) as an anchor cities

Great Rivers South

Stretch from Park Hills, MO (totality 1:58 pm) on Section 1 to Smithland, KY (totality 2:01 pm), on Section 2

TransAmerica Trail

Stretch from Summersville, MO (totality 1:56 pm) on Section 9 to Marion, KY on Section 10 (totality 2:02 pm)

Underground Railroad

Stretch from Smithland, KY (totality 2:01 pm), on Section 2 to just west of Owensboro, KY (totality 2:03 pm), on Section 2
Stretch from Xenia, OH (totality 3:11 pm), on Section 4 to London, OH (totality 3:12 pm), on Section 4
Stretch from Worthington, OH (totality 3:12 pm), on Section 4 to Mt. Vernon, OH (totality 3:13 pm), on Section 4
Stretch from Holmesville, OH (totality 3:14 pm), on Section 4 to Hamilton, Ontario (totality 3:09 pm), on Section 5
Stretch from Everett, OH (totality 3:14 pm), on Detroit Alternate Section 1 to Toledo, OH (totality 3:13 pm), on Detroit Alternate Section 1

Eastern Express Connector

Stretch going from Effingham, IL (totality 2:03 pm) on Section 2 to Indianapolis, IN (totality 3:18 pm) on Section 2

Northern Tier

Stretch between Zanesville, IN (totality 3:09 pm) on Section 8 and just west of Ticonderoga, NY (totality 3:26 pm) on Section 10

Chicago to New York City

Stretch between north of Tipton, IN (totality 3:07 pm) on Section 1 and London, OH (totality 3:12 pm) on Section 2. Also includes most of Indianapolis Cutoff on Section 1.

Lake Erie Connector

Stretch of the Main Route between Ridgetown, Ontario (totality 3:15 pm) and Fort Erie, Ontario (totality 3:18 pm)
Stretch of the Ferry Alternate A from Tilbury, Ontario (totality 3:15 pm) to Wheatley, Ontario (totality 3:14 pm)
Entire Ferry Alternate B (Wheatly, Ontario to Morpeth, Ontario)
Entire Ferry Alternate C (Wheatley, Ontario to Huron, OH)

Adirondack Park Loop

Stretch of the Main Route from just north of Speculator, NY (totality 3:35 pm), to just north of Ticonderoga, NY (totality 3:26 pm)
Entire Burlington Ferry Spur: Burlington, VT, to Port Henry, NY (totality for both 3:26 pm)

Green Mountains Loop

Main Route from just north of Ticonderoga, NY, clockwise to St. Johnsbury, VT (totality 3:28 pm)

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My First Van-Supported Gravel Tour

Jessica Zephyrs — Wed, 15 Feb 2023 08:00:00 +0000

Drawn by the promise of sunshine, scenic gravel, and 65 degrees in November, Amelia and I hopped on a plane headed for Tucson, Arizona. We cross our fingers that our boxed bikes would be gently handled by the Delta staff and flew out of the clouds and south across the desert landscapes, Amelia pointing out the San Raphael Swell and the Grand Canyon below. We were destined for our first Adventure Cycling van-supported Guided Tour, called Patagonia AZ Gravel, just south of Tucson.

Amelia and I have been on a few cycling adventures together, always off-road, over remote mountain ranges, and unsupported far from cell service. With loads of planning, we knew the terrain, route, and services for each day. We had to. But life had given me a few lemons. A four-day, van-supported guided tour — where the leaders told us where to go each day and toted our gear in the van — was our golden ticket. At the same time, a gravel tour lent us the treats we desired in a bike trip: rural dirt, scenic tent camping, mountain passes, and abundant wildlife.

When we met our leaders, Joe and Denny, Amelia and I were frantically assembling our bikes. While Delta handled our bikes with care, the airline employees believed our bikes needed to see Oakland and L.A. before finally arriving in Tucson. Luckily, Joe and Denny waved our apologies away, helped us when they could and cheered encouragement when needed — the sign of a good tour to come. Finally assembled, we were ready to meet up with the other tour participants and learn about the logistics of our tour. And we were very much looking forward to someone else handling the logistics.

Load out

Bob Stenz

Although the other participants were twenty years our senior with many more miles under their belts, it was reassuring to see the assortment of bikes everyone brought. Some were full carbon, drop bar gravel bikes. Others chose a more comfortable, albeit slower, mountain bike. A few even dared to ride their trusty steel touring bikes, including Joe who admitted that next time he’d bring a bike with wider tires. Amelia and I sported almost matching Kona Roves: steel gravel bikes with 47mm tires. I was glad to have my wider tires, since 90% of the tour traversed various states of gravel — everything from smooth hard pack to washboard, chunky rocks, or sand.

After the group intro meeting, Amelia and I packed our Roves with layers of clothes, sunscreen, two water bottles each, and our lunches and headed out. All that stuff filled my handlebar bag, fanny pack, and a half frame bag. Immediately upon starting, we sighted our first javelina of the trip and then stopped to whiz in some bushes and take off our jackets, as one does at the beginning of every ride.

Day One

Day One featured a 29-mile loop with 1,861 feet of elevation gain. At our highest point, just under 5,500 feet, Amelia and I sat in the shade of a tree and ate our lunches. Sandwiches, mandarins, and good ole potato chips fueled our sunny descent. We stopped to take in the views of surrounding mountains, and, in the washes, we pedaled through canyons of rock and tunnels of cottonwoods sporting orange leaves.

Coming to rest at The Stage Stop Inn.

Bob Stenz

Back in the town of Patagonia at its only hotel, Amelia and I showered, grabbed a beer, and readied ourselves for our first group cooking experience. Adventure Cycling Guided Tours are special in this way (and less expensive for it). Unless you’re on a fully supported tour with catered meals, the participants are split into cooking teams who prep, cook, and lay out appetizers, meals, and desserts for the entire group. For such a short, remote tour, Denny and Joe bought all the ingredients from each group’s proposed menus prior to the tour. Amelia, Kathleen, and I were assigned Day One! Luckily, Denny and Joe made it easy. The hardest part was figuring out the location of everything in the trailer and how to put the flat-top grill together, which Denny and Joe did for us. We made steak fajitas so that the gluten intolerant and lactose averse could assemble their dinners how they liked. Everyone set up their chairs and rallied around us. Group cooking allowed us to get to know each other off the bike and built our group comradery. Less confident cooks were paired with home chefs, and I kid you not, the results were delicious. I never once went hungry.

Day Two

Day Two took us south to Parker Lake. Over the day’s 40 miles and 3,250 feet of elevation gain, we wound uphill through canyons onto a wide valley with tall grasses and sparse trees. Some riders spotted pronghorn antelope, and giant raptors were our overhead companions. After a mid-day water stop at the van, we pedaled within five miles of the U.S.-Mexico border. I suggested to Amelia that we should just keep going and pedal all the way to South America — that’s how pleasant the day was. Instead, we veered back north a bit toward Parker Lake, the last few miles seeming to go on forever and a cold beverage calling my name.

Snack time! The van brought food and beverages to the tour at designated spots along the route.

Jessica Zephyrs

The miles did pass, and I was treated to a ready camp chair and snacks. At camp, I used the van’s bike stand, rags, and tools to adjust my rear derailer and clean my chain. Our campsite was quiet, scenic, and allowed for incredible stargazing and owl listening. Nearly everyone fell asleep by 8 PM.

Day Three

I must admit that I am not the sort to jump out of bed in the morning, excited to tackle the day. A few of the tour participants were eager beavers, and what I liked about gravel touring with Adventure Cycling was the flexibility to be yourself. Despite our leaders’ kind warnings to get going early to ensure a daylight finish to the day’s ride, Amelia and I were nearly always the last ones out of camp each morning, and Day Three was no exception.

Day Three was the most challenging with 55 miles, 4,145 feet of elevation gain, and a few sandy sections. But the challenge was part of the thrill for me. Climbing a mountain pass led to the best views and descents of the trip. A sandy meander through a creek bottom popped us out into a quaint town with a red schoolhouse among towering cottonwoods, wherein Joe waxed poetic about the idyllic scene. Eating our afternoon snacks, we warmed our arms in the sun among squatty trees, seeing no one and hearing no one except the calls of birds and our fellow riders who passed and waved. It was my favorite day. Until we hit pavement.

Unfortunately, the last seven or so miles were along the shoulder of State Highway 82, a well-trafficked two-laner with an okay shoulder. Regardless of the shoulder, it was a shock to be among the bustle of cars, and I was a grouch about it. Amelia pulled me along as she always does. Once at the campsite, a shower, a beer, and a vibrant sunset over Patagonia Lake State Park cured my proverbial saddle sores. On our last night together, our group feasted on chili and chatted around the fire. We may have made it past 8:30 PM before hitting the hay.

It could get a little chilly went the sun set, so we bundled up for dinner.

Jessica Zephyrs

Day Four

The last day of the gravel tour was a choose-your-own adventure. Denny offered several riding options to see new territory or revisit the first loop from Patagonia. All of us chose the former, adventurers as we are. After riding back to Patagonia from the State Park, we headed north toward the Alto Ruins, a ghost town first settled in the early 1900s for mining. While I was too tired to make it all the way to the ruins, we passed some beautiful rock spires. On the way back, we stopped for a quick rest at the Paton Center for Hummingbirds, a shady sanctuary for birds and bikers alike. It was the perfect end to a great bicycle adventure.

Overall, the Patagonia AZ Gravel tour was exactly what I was looking for in a guided tour. It was a short, scenic tour with two difficult days and two easier days of riding. The tour leaders were helpful, and one always rode sweep to ensure no one got lost. The van support allowed our route to wander into remote regions and lightened the load on our bikes, making the long days easier. Now I’ve got my eye on the Great Allegheny Passage as my next Adventure Cycling van-supported gravel guided tour.

Nuts and Bolts

How to Get There

Amelia, Kent, and I flew into Tucson and secured a shuttle to Patagonia. Other participants drove to the start of the tour. If we’d needed to, we could’ve rented a car in Tucson and left it at Patagonia’s lone hotel, The Stage Stop Inn. Amelia and I also considered taking a local bus as far to Patagonia as possible and then loading our bikes and riding the rest of the way there but that would have required us to be much more efficient in our packing than a van-supported tour warrants.

Ken’s Shuttle Service runs a shuttle between Tucson and Patagonia. Your tour leader can connect you with Ken if you need this service.

Jess and Amelia stop for a selfie.

Jessica Zephyrs

Accommodations

We spent one night at the Stage Stop Inn and two nights camping. The first night of camping was rustic, without facilities beyond a pit toilet and a giant fire ring. But the van toted all the food, water, and comfort we needed, and the group site was quiet, without light pollution or the hum of generators. The second campground had warm showers, flush toilets, and a convenience store. While the campground accommodated many RVs, it was fairly quiet. I wasn’t a huge fan of the bright lights lining the boat ramp next to the tent camping area.

Navigation

Our leaders emailed our group route information two weeks prior to the start of the tour. We used Ride with GPS, a phone app, to navigate the route. Leaders also handed out paper versions on the first day of the tour.

Bikes and Bags

I recommend a bike with tires 45mm or wider to handle the rough and sandy sections of any guided gravel tour. The people who brought their touring bikes mentioned how they wished they’d had something better equipped for the terrain. Whether that bike is a gravel bike, hardtail, or fully rigid mountain bike is up to you!

As someone who lives in the mountains but hates being cold, I tended to pack more layers for each day’s ride than other tour participants. I easily filled a handlebar bag, a half-frame bag, and a large fanny pack with clothes, food, and toiletries. (Thank goodness for chamois butter.) I also carried easily accessible snacks in a feed bag. Other riders got away with less, but everyone carried at least two water bottles, sometimes more.

Communications

Beyond registration information, staff and tour leaders begin emailing participants 60 days prior to the tour start. They wait to send the information until this date to ensure that all the information is as correct as possible, while still giving the participants time to plan all the logistical aspects of their trip. And be sure to read their emails! They’re full of important information, some of which you’ll need to act on prior to the tour.

Logistical information, such as airport shuttle options and a bike shop to which you can ship your bike, as well as the start time of the first meeting, come to each registered participant about 60 days before tour departure as well.

Difficulty

Adventure Cycling considers this a Level 4 on their difficulty scale: “A tour for someone looking to push themselves on their adventure. Average mileage between 45 and 60 miles per day, with a variety of terrain. Longer mileage days will typically have more rolling terrain, while shorter mileage days will have hilly or mountainous terrain. Average daily elevation gain between 2,500 and 45,00 feet per day, with some days possibly exceeding 4,500 feet in elevation gain."

It’s important to stay hydrated when you’re pedaling hard in Arizona.

Jessica Zephyrs

I wouldn’t call myself an avid rider but I’m in decent overall physical condition without many health concerns, so my advice comes from that point of view and is not meant to account for every individual’s experience or health situation. Adventure Cycling’s long weekend gravel tours can be short but punchy. The first day eases you into the tour and the last day eases you out, but the two days in between were long and hard. Each of those two days took me six to eight hours (including stops) to finish. The riding surface varied and at times required a little bit of technical skill to ride. I was pooped by the end of this tour.

The Basics of Gravel Riding

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Saying Yes to eBikes in the Dolomites

Belén Castelló — Tue, 07 Feb 2023 09:40:00 +0000

A bikepacking trip may sound like an intimidating way of spending the holidays, and I get it! It might seem tough and unrealistic. Perhaps you believe you’re not fit enough for such an endeavor. Plus, why would you spend your time off work for the discomfort of such a physically demanding activity or camping in a cold tent?

The most nourishing experiences I’ve ever lived have not been whilst hanging around the house or at an all-inclusive beach hotel. There’s something about bike travel that activates minds, enriching every situation and making things look, taste, and feel better.

This past summer, Tristan and I marked our fifth anniversary since we started traveling by bike. When we first started, I was leaving my office job behind for an exciting gap year on two wheels. I still remember my nerves while preparing and my feeling of uncertainty; I didn’t quite know what I was getting myself into. Similarly, a few months ago—over lunch and out of the blue—my brother expressed interest in joining us on one of our trips. Without thinking twice, we invited him to ride with us in the majestic Italian Alps. At that moment, I saw reflected in him that same feeling of emotion for the unknown I had felt upon my first departure.

The problem was that Horacio didn’t have much experience riding bikes. Apart from having had two knee surgeries in the near past and not being in great shape, the terrain in the Dolomites is no beginner’s level. This is why we decided to use eBikes: to make sure he could conquer all those mountain passes without hurting himself and give him some space to enjoy the effort. After all, he was joining to have a good time and we knew that carrying all the gear on such demanding elevation gain was going to be too intense for his first bikepacking adventure. We wanted him to enjoy the experience.

Tout Terrain arranged for us to have Skane trekking eBikes waiting for us in Milan. For a couple of days, we taught my brother how to organize his equipment (not ultra-light at all) in those small bikepacking bags. We could tell he was feeling a little anxious and doubtful about whether he’d be able to live up to the week-long challenge.

Packing bags

The experience was transformative for Horacio and it allowed me to connect with my brother and get to know him a little better. Seeing him overcome such a challenge inspired me to create a video sharing the story of this journey from his perspective. Bike travel definitely brings a lot of "type 2 fun," and just as you can see how this adventure dragged him completely out of his comfort zone, it also gave him a real break from routine and a kind of reward he’d never experienced before. I wouldn’t want to get ahead and spoil the ending of the story before you watch the video, so I’ll just say it was well worth the effort!

Nuts and Bolts

Getting to the Dolomites

Bikes are best ridden and not transported, especially eBikes! Unfortunately, batteries are not (yet) allowed on airplanes, which is why moving by land is the ideal approach. Europe has a good train network and—even though most fast-speed trains won’t accept bikes—you can always take the slower regional connections for what’s usually a fair price. Most of the time bikes can be carried for free or, depending on the country, you may need to pay a small fee and reserve your spot in advance. In our case, the trekking eBikes were arranged for us in Milan by Tout Terrain since we are ambassadors for them, but there are plenty of shops where you can rent any sort of bike. We chose the Skane model for its adaptability to both paved and off-road terrains.

From Milan we took two regional trains, the first to Verona and the second one to Ponte Gardena, from where we started climbing almost immediately. You’ll only pay €3 for a 24-hour bike ticket! If you want to avoid the hassle of bringing a bike on the train with you, then you can rent one directly in the area of the Dolomites. There are many shops around as they are very used to cyclists coming by to conquer the plentiful and famous passes of the area. Additionally, eBikes are very common there since the climbs are brutal, so you won’t feel out of place if you decided to ride with a battery!

Keeping pace together

The Route

We love to design our own routes. For this, we use Komoot, as it has proven to be a very reliable and easygoing platform for route planning, navigation, and trip sharing. For this adventure, we originally designed a route through our favorite highlights of the Dolomites, but as we trip went on, we adapted the track according to weather conditions and mostly to my brother’s needs. After averaging +1000 meter daily elevation gain for four days in a row, he really wanted to skip the last pass to ride on a smooth bike lane slowly descending towards Auronzo di Cadore. But that’s the fun of a bike tour! Stay flexible and just be ready to change your plans on the go. The Dolomites are a welcoming playground for riders of all sorts, so whether you are into smooth gravel, mountain biking, road cycling, or a mix of all, you’ll easily find your preferred riding terrain in the area. Just select the right sport and fitness level on the Komoot route planner when you start planning! If you are curious about our route, we have provided a description and full gpx track.

When to Visit

The Dolomites are a tourist area in the summer months, which is when I’d recommend you avoid it at all costs. Visiting between mid-April and mid-June or between September and October is probably the best option. Depending on the year, you might still encounter quite some snow in the spring, but the roads will be always clean. We loved cycling here in mid-October, since all the trees had changed their color, making it a beautiful autumnal postcard scene.

Lodging and Food

Wild camping is not allowed in Italy, especially not within the Dolomites National Park. In our case, we combined wild camping outside of the park (campsites were all closed in October) with indoor accommodations to be able to fully charge our eBike batteries fully every two days. Do take into account that most hotels/campsites/rifugios are closed outside the summer or winter season. So if, like us, you decide to ride on the shoulder season, it might be more challenging to find an open place to spend the night indoors.

Preparing camp

Regarding food, no need to worry! Chances are that every day you’ll cross a supermarket, so you won’t have to rely on reserves. The region is full of charming towns and delicious cafeterias or restaurants where you can stop to indulge in a warm Italian meal. We ate so many pizzas! Restaurant prices in the area of the Dolomites are higher than in other areas of Italy and generally charge the ‘coperto‘: a little supplement per person. We ended up eating our own food for lunch and going out for a nice meal for dinner.

Battery Range

Specs are important when deciding to go on a long eBikepacking adventure. You can expect the range of a battery to average between 50 and 120 kilometers, depending on the elevation, terrain, or weather conditions. For your next trip, consider using an eBike with a torque sensor (instead of a cadence sensor), as this enables the bike to give back power depending on how much you put in. This results in a more natural feeling ride when going at slower speeds.

Charging

Every eBiker’s nightmare is to run out of battery mid-ride. This is why eBikepacking tours require some planning ahead to make sure you don’t run out of "juice" and suddenly feel like you’re lugging a tank. Knowing when you’ll charge next is crucial! In our case, we were able to ration our battery usage to make sure we’d be able to combine wild camping with accommodations every other day, allowing us to enjoy the best of both worlds. Whenever we were nearing 20% battery level, we’d look for a charging option. At the hotels, we’d leave our removable batteries charging overnight, and when we camped, we tried to fully charge the batteries over a coffee or meal break ahead of the evening. Italy is perfect for this!

Features

Of course, what type of eBike you ride is going to elevate the journey to different levels of riding comfort. We rode with Gates Carbon belt drive system instead of chains, so we didn’t have to concern ourselves with maintenance. Likewise, the Pinion gearboxes on our bikes made shifting smooth from the get-go, especially on climbs where Horacio might’ve struggled to get into the right gear on a traditional derailer. And lastly, the type of motor that pushes your eBike forward will have a big impact on how you experience the ride. If you do ride with a Pinion gearbox, we recommend the Neodrives hub motor as it doesn’t weigh much and provides ‘regenerative’ breaking—adding a few kilometers of range by feeding some energy back into the battery on the downhills.

Some purists think of eBikes as cheating. I love the camaraderie in the cycling community and wish we could all see eBikes as a gateway to those in need of an extra push to get them out riding, just like my brother. He has now bought his own gravel bike and is riding around his hometown exploring his own backyard. And for us? We definitely had fun trading our trekking bikes for eBikes this time!

Back in the Saddle

The post Saying Yes to eBikes in the Dolomites appeared first on Adventure Cycling Association.

Spring on the Great Allegheny Passage with My Boys

Sarah Hunter — Mon, 23 Jan 2023 16:00:00 +0000

Mist rising from the waterfall shimmers in the late afternoon sunbeams that cut through the forest. As I look up at the ravine wall we’ve descended to stand next to this beauty, I’m reasonably sure that we can climb out, and in any event, I decide it was worth it. For the past few months, all of the waterfalls we’ve encountered have been encased in ice. Unleashed by spring, water travels unencumbered here on the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP), and so do we. Throughout our journey, we’ve occasionally been joined by bunnies that hop along the trail with us. More than once we’ve found ourselves involved in a friendly race with a butterfly, and we’ve discovered that waterfalls like this one, strengthened by spring runoff, are almost commonplace. With trail towns along the way offering good food and rest for the weary, we understand now why this trip is often referred to as the “ride of your life.”

Waterfall in spring.

Sarah Hunter

Just a few days ago, my two teenage sons and I loaded our bikes and bare essentials in the car and left our snow-packed yard to embark on this trip we’ve been planning since the days were short. We looked for a scenic rail trail of considerable mileage in an area that would be warm in mid-April, and within reasonable driving distance from our home. A bit of research on Adventure Cycling’s tours and routes led us to the GAP, a 150-mile rail trail that winds along rivers and through mountain passes from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania to Cumberland, Maryland. We looked up the average temperature for the region in April and found that it was 61 degrees. We were sold. Halfway into our journey, standing next to the falls, we’re fully immersed in spring and exceedingly happy with our trail choice.

Two days ago, we arrived in Cumberland, Maryland, parked our car, and rented a minivan to drive into Pittsburgh. It took two and a half hours to drive from Cumberland to Pittsburgh, and it would take us four leisurely days to bike back. In the Enterprise parking garage in downtown Pittsburgh, we unloaded our bikes, strapped the panniers to the racks, and took turns taking the elevator down to the ground floor. Our two-wheel adventure was officially underway. Out on the city street, we were surprised to find a bike lane waiting for us, separated from the road by intermittent barriers. My fear of riding in the city disappeared and we maneuvered easily through the streets to the confluence of the Monongahela, Allegheny, and Ohio Rivers at the tip of Point State Park, the start of our journey. After taking some time to relax in the warm sunshine, we set off, following signs for the GAP.

Fountain at Point State Park.

Sarah Hunter

The Hot Metal Bridge, the first of many impressive bridges we’d encounter on the trail, framed our last glimpse of the city skyline. Soon cityscapes transformed into suburbs, and before the day was through, we wound through the woods on a quiet trail along the Youghiogheny River (yok-uh-gey-nee). At sunset, we arrived in the lovely town of West Newton, Pennsylvania and made our way to the Bright Morning B&B, where Mary Lou and Rob welcomed us warmly. We parked our bikes in the bike garage, took hot showers, put in our breakfast requests, and walked up the road to Trailside Pub for a well-earned meal.

After exchanging cycling stories and route ideas with a father-and-son-in-law duo over a hearty breakfast the next morning, we headed off on what we soon discovered was the most beautiful section of the GAP trail. The Youghiogheny was our constant companion as we meandered 41 miles through remote sections of state park forest and quaint trail towns from West Newton to Ohiopyle. Two straight lines of towering tulip poplars framed many miles of this portion of the trail, their branches still mostly naked, etching the blue sky. At their roots, a shire-green understory adorned with creeping phlox grew greener and thicker almost before our eyes. It was on this idyllic stretch that we were enticed off the trail by two paths, the second of which led us down into the ravine.

Sarah Hunter and sons in front of Bright Morning B&B.

Sarah Hunter

Our journey thus far had already included many mini falls — spring runoff cascading down ledges that line many sections of the trail. There were so many, in fact, that we stopped pointing them out and just admired them quietly as we rolled on. But when we saw a sign for Mitchell’s Field near mile marker 75, we felt compelled to follow the trail. We had read trip reports touting short hikes along the trail that led to noteworthy falls. Parking our bikes in the trees, we headed up a narrow footpath nearly obscured by lush rhododendrons. As we moved up the trail, gently pushing branches aside, we were astonished when the last thicket of bushes revealed a spectacular multi-tiered waterfall. We took our shoes off to cross the stream and take in the falls from all angles. Only the thought of a good meal eventually pulled us away.

A larger springtime mini falls.

Sarah Hunter

Back on our bikes, we soon encountered another sign, this one for Johnson Run Trail, and despite growing hunger, curiosity led us to explore what this path might hold.

It didn’t take long to catch sight of this waterfall, but it was far below us, down a steep ravine. As we began down an obvious path, it quickly transformed into a muddy mess beneath last year’s fallen leaves. With each step, I considered turning back, but soon I was about three quarters of the way down, and my sons were descending above me. For better or worse, the decision had been made. As I considered the thought of spending a night next to the falls, I took a mental inventory of my bag to determine if I had anything that could help us: a first aid kit, an annotated map full of Post-It notes about explorations along with way (including this one), our itinerary and reservation information, chocolate, and a deck of cards. No rope, or any suitable substitute, which I think is the only tool that could have been useful in this situation. I resolved to add rope to my bag of necessities and assured myself that we wouldn’t need it.

After spending some time admiring the dramatic falls, sharing a few pieces of chocolate and wondering aloud what dinner possibilities might await us at our next stop, we began to discuss our options for climbing out. We all settled on slightly different variations of the same general route, and as we made our way up, careful to avoid new vegetation, we offered friendly suggestions to one another. It took some time and a few failed attempts — including some small setbacks and some that sent us nearly back to the bottom — but in the end, we all made it to the top where we assessed our varying degrees of muddiness and minor scrapes, and moved on.

In the glow of the late afternoon sun, we found the beautiful town of Ohiopyle a few more miles down the trail, and made our way to the MacKenzie House, where we had rented a room for the night. We clapped the mud off our sneakers, changed into clean clothes, and walked down to The Falls Market to feast on burgers, recount our fumbles on the ravine, and wonder what adventures awaited us further down the trail.

Over the next two days, we followed the trail with its remarkable bridges and long tunnels that have been painstakingly restored to their former glory. Guided by the Casselman River, flowering redbuds, and, finally, by the old Western Maryland railroad tracks, we pedaled on. On our last day, under blue sky and deliciously warm early-morning sunshine, we crossed the Eastern Continental Divide and marveled about how two drops of rain tumbling together from the clouds will travel entirely different journeys after landing on one side of the divide or the other.

I don’t know where my sons will land, or where their journeys will take them, but for now I’m grateful that we’re all traveling together, and I’m comforted by the thought that they’ll carry our adventures with them as they forge their own paths.

Nuts and Bolts

Day One Rent minivan and drive to Pittsburgh. Drop off at Enterprise downtown location. Ride 36 miles to West Newton. Stay at Bright Morning B&B.

Day Two Ride 41 miles from West Newton to Ohiopyle. Stay at Mackenzie Guest House (Laurel Highlands River Tours & Outdoor Center).

Day Three Ride 41 miles from Ohiopyle to Meyersdale. Stay at Morguen Toole Co.

Day Four Ride 32 miles from Meyersdale to Cumberland.

You can learn more about the Great Allegheny Passage at gaptrail.org. At $10, the TrailGuide, which comes with maps, is a worthy investment. John Urman’s film On the Passage is also a terrific preview of the “ride of your life.”

You’ll find a bike-travel map of nearly the entire GAP Trail with Adventure Cycling’s route: Chicago to New York City, (CYNC). Check out Section 1 of the Philadelphia Alternate on sale in our Cyclosource online store.

Little Wheels, Big Smiles

The post Spring on the Great Allegheny Passage with My Boys appeared first on Adventure Cycling Association.

Prince Edward Island, Tip to Tip

Sarah Hunter — Mon, 12 Dec 2022 15:59:00 +0000

As the sun begins to rise over Prince Edward Island’s Hillsborough River, casting beams of light across the floor of our room in the Bishop’s Rest B&B, I take in the scene and treasure it. Empty water bottles are lined up on the table, ready to be filled. Bags are scattered around the room, displaying our clothes and what’s left of our food: an increasingly small variety of granola bars, trail mix, and M&Ms. Our panniers hang over the chairs, ready to be clipped to the bikes. In the bed across the room, our two teenage boys sleep soundly. This is the fifth and final day of our journey, and I’m sorry to see it end.

Each morning we allow ourselves to linger a bit in the bed and breakfast that has been our home for the night, then we collect our bags, stuff them in the panniers, and get back in the saddle for another full day of riding. It’s a routine that is surprisingly easy to fall into. Wake comfortably, eat, gather our things, ride. Ride all day. Ride on the hard-packed path of the Confederation Trail, through paved back roads that turn to dirt, and down quiet coastal routes. Ride past stunning ocean vistas, acres of potato, corn, and blueberry fields, beautiful sand dunes, and quaint working waterfront villages. Stop to enjoy the red clay cliffs and the warm ocean water and then ride some more until we’re tired and hungry. So far, each day we find ourselves at our destination at about the time we’re ready to rest and refuel. Careful planning has paid off.

It’s tough to plan a family bike trip. We’ve cycled every inch of the carriage trails in Acadia National Park many times over, but we’ve never embarked on a multi-day bike trip, one where we haul all our gear and food and rely solely on our bikes for transportation. When I discovered the Confederation Trail, an old rail trail that runs through the middle of Prince Edward Island (PEI), I knew I had found our trip, but deciding on the exact route was a bit challenging. It all looks so doable when you’re resting on the sofa, examining the map, determining distances between towns, imagining the possibilities. Fifty miles a day sounds like a realistic maximum. I mean, we have all day to ride. We could probably do seventy miles for that matter. Or eighty. No, better to stay on the conservative side. I wanted everyone to enjoy our first long-distance cycling adventure.

At 12 and 13, Sarah’s sons are capable of a longer adventure like Prince Edward Island.

Sarah Hunter

Thinking about it this morning, so far, the trip has been all that I’d hoped for. We’re all sore but no one is complaining about it too much, and there’s generally a peaceful spirit to our group. Perhaps it’s because we’re away from screens, outside all day, working hard, in a beautiful setting. Or maybe it’s simply because we’re spending time together. At home, we wake up, make breakfast, pack lunches, and head off in different directions. Here, we stick together and at the end of the day, our shared experiences are evident in our banter. There’s a unity to us. It’s nice.

Not too many years ago, our bike trips were limited to a three-mile river path in our town, and those took all afternoon and included snack breaks. Now, at twelve and thirteen, the boys are as capable as we are, but that doesn’t mean they want to do what we want. This trip has had the right ingredients:

It’s tough, but not too tough. 200 miles spread over five days is proving to be reasonable for all of us.
It’s an impressive goal. We aren’t just taking day trips that add up to 200 miles. We’ve left our car behind and we’re committed to the route by bicycle.
It’s a place that’s new to all of us. We’re all experiencing PEI for the first time. We don’t know what’s around the next corner. We could be in for a tough climb or a blissfully long downhill; it’s a mystery. We’re our own guides and we’re learning about the place together.

Bottom line: there’s an adventurous spirit about the trip that has made it appealing to our teenagers.

Throughout the week, I’ve been grateful for my family and impressed by the trail. Despite some heavy overnight rains, there have been no puddles, no mud. The Confederation Trail is a well-drained, hard-packed stone dust surface, and it’s perfect for our boys on their mountain bikes and my husband and I on our touring bikes. It’s also a much-appreciated break from traffic, and it affords us the opportunity to see the rich farming culture of PEI.

Navigating off the trail has been great, too. In order to get the full feel of the island, I created a route that took us through the heart of the island on the Confederation Trail, and on roads that lead to the north shore and travel along the coast. It’s late August and traffic is light. Yesterday we encountered our first major road, PE-6, but the traffic was reasonable and the shoulders were generous. After a few miles, we turned into Cavendish Grove, part of the PEI National Park, where we found ourselves meandering first through an orchard and then through beautiful sand dunes. Our route brought us back to PE-6, into the town of North Rustico, and then back into the National Park on a paved path that followed the ocean. We took a few breaks on this stretch to walk on the beach, take in the red clay cliffs, and soak our feet in the remarkably warm water. Dubbed the warmest waters north of the Carolinas, I can honestly say that the ocean here is much warmer than the water temperatures we’re used to in Maine.

Off-road rail trails make traversing the Island safe and fun for all ages of travelers.

Sarah Hunter

The sun was setting yesterday as we arrived at our destination for the night, the Bishop’s Rest. When I made our reservation, I requested a birthday cake, knowing my son would be thoroughly surprised to get a cake for his birthday during our trip. When we opened the door to our room to discover a full birthday party scene, complete with Happy Birthday balloons and napkins, we were all surprised. The very kind owners of this historic bed and breakfast have just welcomed their fourth child into the world earlier this week, and they still managed to put together a thoughtful birthday spread for our son. This is PEI hospitality!

This morning we wake to a grim weather report, though. 100% chance of rain. Thunderstorms likely. This would be our final day, a 50-mile route from St. Andrews to East Point. We consider our options. We can take the day off, lie around, play cards and head out tomorrow. It will mean changing our reservations, adding a little expense to our trip, but it will keep us dry and give us a much-needed break. But we’re on a roll, and as we’ve learned from our short stay on PEI, the weather can change quickly. We peek out the window. For the moment, the sky is bright. It seems like a waste to sit around as the sun is coming out and tomorrow’s weather could be worse, so we decide to embrace the fact that we’ll almost certainly get rained on today and go for it. We’ve traveled 150 miles in four days. We’re finishing it.

A shortcut through the field behind the Bishop’s Rest brings us back to the Confederation Trail and about an hour later, we arrive in the picturesque town of St. Peters. We leave the trail behind and turn onto North Shore Drive, where we encounter gently rolling hills and very few cars. To our left, long fields stretch out towards the ocean. Around midday, the sky becomes noticeably darker up ahead. It’s pointless to go faster: we’re headed right into it. When it’s obviously upon us, we pull over, don our rain gear, turn on our bike lights, and move on.

Heading into the storm.

Sarah Hunter

When the rain comes, it comes down in sheets. Within moments, we’re thoroughly soaked. Water sloshes in our sneakers with every turn of the pedal and it rains like this for about an hour. For ten miles, we ride through it. On the other side, blue sky greets us and we’re all in good spirits. Who can remember all those bike rides in beautiful weather? A ride in the pouring rain is much more memorable.

When we reach East Point Lighthouse our sneakers are still full of water, but our clothes are dry. The boys pay the small fee to slosh their way up the spiral staircase in the lighthouse and take in the views. They are well earned for sure. We’ve done it. We rode Prince Edward Island from tip to tip. Along the way, we endured the hills and the long days together, took in the breathtaking views together, enjoyed the same selection of trail mix, granola bars, and M&Ms together. We solved problems and shared in our successes. Together. We reunited as a family in a way that can’t be done at home and can’t be avoided on a long-distance cycling trip. It was truly an epic family adventure.

Nuts and Bolts

Transportation: The day before our journey begins, we drive into Charlottetown and stay at the Sonata Inn in the historic district. We use George Larter’s PEI Cycling Tours to get to the North Cape and back from East Point. If we had run into trouble along the way, George would have helped us.

Day 1: Our adventure begins! We’re dropped off at North Cape and enjoy a flat, 21-mile ride down Route 12 along the coast, much of which is lined with potato fields. Our day ends at the lovely La Petite France Bed & Breakfast, where we find a good dinner just a short ride away.

Day 2: Our toughest day. We ride 50 miles on the Confederation Trail to our next stop in Miscouche at Prince County B&B.

Day 3: Hills! We head off on our 33-mile day taking the Confederation Trail from Miscouche to Emerald. This takes us through more farmland and the city of Summerside, where we lose the trail for a bit but quickly find our way back. In Emerald we head off the trail, encountering our first (and only) significant hills of the journey. We arrive in the town of Stanley Bridge. At the Stanley Bridge Resort, we have an incredible meal.

Day 4: Our most scenic day! We start out on PE-6, which takes us to Cavendish Grove, part of PEI National Park. This brings us back to PE-6 for a bit, where we restock on snacks at the market in North Rustico. Then we make our way to the next section of the National Park and ride on a paved path that follows the ocean. Forty-six miles later, we arrive at the Bishop’s Rest in St. Andrews.

Day 5: Our final day is 50 miles! We begin on the Confederation Trail from the Bishop’s Rest and in St. Peters, turn onto PE-16 (North Shore Drive), and follow it all the way up to East Point.

The post Prince Edward Island, Tip to Tip appeared first on Adventure Cycling Association.

Cargo Camping in Wisconsin

Carmen Aiken — Thu, 01 Dec 2022 11:47:08 +0000

The first bike trip I ever did, a bike overnight, is one I bring up a lot. I believe in “Run What Ya Brung.” Back then I “brung” my 1970s Schwinn Varsity, converted to singlespeed. It was the bike that taught me I could really go places — I’d ridden up to 60 miles, wandering past the Port of Chicago into Indiana, amazed I could do so. An overnight with some acquaintances, with a child’s sleeping bag in my messenger bag, and a stop for sodas on the way to Illinois Beach State Park didn’t intimidate so much as bemuse me.

Something like a decade later, as the last of the summer began to move on, I found myself with the same feels. I planned a brief bike trip on a route I’d done before in Wisconsin, around 40 miles a day with two nights of camping and options to stay longer. I was about to take my trusty Trek basket bike with a couple pairs of jorts and instant coffee when a friend’s generosity brought a temporary option into my life: a cargo bike.

The Omnium Cargo V3 is the most recent cargo release from Danish cargo bike company Omnium Cargo. My personal Omnium showed up in shiny Diablo Red on the sidewalk outside my apartment. Soon I was unloading the bike from a truck in La Crosse, Wisconsin. Camp and (car)go slow?

The first time I did a version of this trip, my inaugural multiday bike tour, I had no idea I’d be riding the United States Bicycle Route (USBR) 30 in Wisconsin, which will take you from Lake Michigan all the way to the Mississippi if you’d like. My version this time was to go eastward along the Great River Road to a midpoint on the Elroy-Sparta Trail in Wilton, Wisconsin.

The USBR 30 follows a well-developed rail trail across Wisconsin.

Carmen Aiken

If you’re a Midwesterner, bike travel is an amazing opportunity to enjoy the incredible variety of landscapes our states have. While others may turn their noses up at the idea of riding through flyover country, I haven’t found nearly as many places where you can begin a trip with multimodal transportation. In Illinois, it’s possible to take Amtrak from Chicago to Winona, Minnesota, where the Great River Road is, or the town of Red Wing if you’d like a longer trip, or heck, Minneapolis. Regional rail in Illinois has multiple connections to rail trails where you can enjoy cute B&Bs or the glory of the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore.

The Great River Road, WI-35, runs along the Mississippi with beautiful towns, bluffs, and shoreline. Eagles are easily spotted, as well as herons and other raptors. The traffic isn’t too bad, but it is the shoulder of a highway, and traffic can get heavy during the summer. I rode it midweek, just after Labor Day en route to the La Crosse River trailhead where the Bike4Trails portion of USBR 30 begins.

I’ve never owned a cargo bike, although I’ve used them for former jobs, and I’ve never really been a big fan of longtail bikes — just not as fun for a shorter-bodied person who really loves commuting around town. Not to mention, for work, I once hauled e-assist longtails in and out of warehouses, and they’re heavy, clunky, and expensive. They didn’t really make sense for me, and touring on one seemed out of the question.

The Omnium was a whole different ride — easy and fun. With an extender bar and webbing, the front rack is an enormous platform for whatever you might need on your trip. Yes, I haphazardly packed, but that’s the beauty of a Bike Overnight for me! I want as few barriers to adventure as possible. As I’d be camping at our gravel event later that week, I placed my sleeping bag, tent, and lock on the bottom. I grabbed a small backpack and tossed in a multitool, patch kit, and handpump, along with my medication, Dr. Bronner’s soap, toothbrush, comb, and three-too-many books. I bungee corded a couple pairs of shorts, skivvies, socks, and a bra, and threaded my sneakers to that. Finally, I grabbed my handy grocery bungee net and tucked it all in.

I picked up some fresh farm raspberries and planted them in the net, snacking as I cruised by farmland, trains, and I-90. The bike smoothly crunched on its 2.15-inch tires along the rail trail, and I happily rang my bell. People called out, “Quite a load there!” and “Cool bike!”

Cool bike selfie time.

Carmen Aiken

In West Salem, I stopped to take pictures of signs reading WELCOME TRAIL BIKERS and considered the beautiful existence of a rail trail with towns for cyclists. I’d already passed two campgrounds, and each town had signage indicating where I could use a washroom. In the late afternoon I arrived in Sparta, where I chewed on a beef and cheddar stick and refilled my water bottles. I could feel the sun on my shoulders and the dust on my tank top, noted where my sandals were creating tan lines.

You’d think all that sun would make me grateful to encounter the tunnels on the Elroy-Sparta Trail. The Elroy-Sparta Trail, also part of USBR 30, is considered the first rail trail in the U.S. It deviates from the interstate after it crosses I-90, and the alternating forest and prairie are magnificent. The tunnels themselves are imposing and not for the faint of heart. It’s not possible to ride through the tunnel (although I’m sure people have tried) as the ground is wet and there is no light. Walking the Omnium through the tunnel was no harder than the loaded touring bike I took on this same route six years ago. If anything, it was a more stable experience thanks to wider tires and straight handlebars.

After I exited the second tunnel, I could see dusk coming on and Wilton in the distance. I have a soft spot for this small town in Wisconsin. On that first tour, I spent an evening in the municipal campground, happily full of cheese curds and Spotted Cow beer. In the morning, I was invited to the Lions Club pancake breakfast.

This time, though, it was Labor Day and no Tuesday pancakes. I bounced into the campground and rolled through the grass to a spot by the playground, chuckling at the only other bike camper there who seemed to be … efficient. I kicked out the kickstand, set up my tent, threw my sleeping bag inside, then grabbed my backpack and rolled back out for pizza and beer at the Hitchin’ Post. In the morning, I slept in and did the reverse, sitting on the front webbing as I brushed my teeth and thought about coffee.

I went back the way I came the next day, wondering if I’d be bored. But I wasn’t. I was riding my bike and thinking about what lunch might be and autumn and if I’d ever write about this. I swapped my sandals for sneakers and shoved a pork chop gas station sandwich where the raspberries had lived, eating cold pizza as I took pictures of my favorite sign in Wilton.

Why not now?

Carmen Aiken

Now maybe someone sees my bike, loaded as it is, and tut-tuts. Maybe it’s not neat or tidy enough, or it needs to be in bags, or whatever preference someone may have. But I’m someone who rides with a jacket wrapped around my waist, in high-top shoes, in jean shorts, with the same sleeping bag I bought on clearance at REI, and I like riding like that. Being able to do something like this so casually is born of experience and confidence. The truth is that it’s more expensive, harder, and scarier to begin, to go on that first bike overnight. That’s why having groups to help you — with accessible and kind information, with gear to loan that isn’t a million dollars — is REALLY important.

But honestly, this cargo bike was SO much easier to load and go than the cute little touring bike I had a long time ago. It fits with my style: no spending tons of time shoving the exact right item into the exact right tiny, expensive bag.

Plus, the Omnium XS frame ACTUALLY fits me, and I never felt overextended. I don’t really like riding front-loaded because I find it hard to climb and sketchy to descend. Not so with this bike — it’s smooth. Because of where I sat over the larger, wide back wheel, I was even able to take on a very, very small segment of singletrack on the evening I crossed into Minnesota to watch the trains and rivers from the hiker-biker site. Honestly, when I got back to Chicago and jumped back on my basket bike, I almost felt ALARMED at how twitchy it felt.

I can’t speak to other cargo bike touring, but as I think about what bikes I see in my future, having an Omnium would be a perfect way to bike travel, especially for bike overnights or bike travel weekends with groups. I already know I can fit a cord of firewood on it, and I’d love to carry camp cooking tools for friends. If you’ve been thinking about adding a multitool-type bike to your quiver, well, step aside “all terrain” or “gravel,” I’d highly recommend a cargo bike like the Omnium V3.

Route Details

USBR 30: from Bluff Siding, Wisconsin, Winona, Minnesota, to Wilton, WI. Another option is to start and end at the Elroy-Sparta Trail Terminus. Wisconsin Bike Fed has excellent county-by-county maps of the best riding in the area as well.

Places to stay: Perrot State Park, Trempealeau Hotel (reservations needed seasonally), Sparta DNR Campground, Norwalk Village Park Campground, Veterans Memorial Campground, Wilton Community Campground are all near the route. There are also lots of B&Bs and small hotels or Airbnbs along the Great River Road.

Mileage: I rode Trempealeau to Wilton, which is about 56 miles, but breaking the route into shorter chunks is easily possible, especially if you want to take more time and photos (which you should!).

How to get there: Although you can’t take a cargo bike on Amtrak (yet), you can take a standard bike on the Empire Builder in Saint Paul or Chicago and get to USBR 30 via Winona, Red Wing, or Tomah. If you’re taking a longer Midwest journey across Wisconsin, Milwaukee is also a great hub for multimodal travel.

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